May 16
An early spring Overlanding loop through Utah’s San Rafael country
It was time for my buddy David and me to cook up another trip. Although it was still early spring, we decided to head back to the San Rafael Swell area of Utah. We had explored nearby spots before, but this time we planned to venture farther by following a network of dirt roads, aiming to complete a rough overland loop. Our route would take us north along the west side of Utah Route 24, then circle back south on the east side—a full sweep across some of Utah’s most rugged and remote terrain. What followed was a nearly two-week journey through winding canyons, remote campsites, and a not so surprising number of washboard roads!
First Base Camp
Farnsworth Canyon
Our first outing was on foot through Farnsworth Canyon, which leads to a set of faint but beautiful pictographs tucked beyond the canyon walls. Quiet and less visited, the hike set the tone for the kind of experience we were after—raw, remote, and full of surprises.
David on an easy route finding day
Along the way, we found a number of interesting side trips, including Goblin Valley State Park. Its surreal and otherworldly formations were unlike anything else—truly a highlight, even in a region full of geological marvels.
More Hoodoos
Eventually, we made our way north via Buckhorn Draw Road, hoping a ranger’s recommendation would pan out. We had four-wheel drive, but a Honda Ridgeline pulling both a trailer and a van made for an interesting challenge. It was doable, but our only regret was not airing the tires down. We assumed the washboard surface would ease up—it didn’t. Lesson learned.
We made several memorable stops along the way. Nine Mile Canyon stood out for its sheer volume of rock art—thousands of petroglyphs and pictographs spread along the canyon walls, many depicting animals, hunting scenes, and human figures created by the Fremont people over a thousand years ago. Another highlight was the Wedge Overlook, often called the Little Grand Canyon, where we took in sweeping views over the San Rafael River as it cuts through layered red rock formations. We also crossed over the 10,000-foot summit on Utah Route 31, part of the Huntington Canyon Scenic Byway, where alpine forests, open meadows, and patches of lingering snow made it feel like a completely different world from the desert below. Dinosaur National Monument, straddling the Utah-Colorado border, offered a completely different experience. At the Quarry Exhibit Hall, we saw dozens of real dinosaur fossils still embedded in rock. The monument also features dramatic canyon scenery and remnants of early homesteads.
10,000 Feet Boondocking
Notable Features of the Swell
The San Rafael Swell is a rugged expanse of sandstone domes, slot canyons, and cliffs that covers over 2,000 square miles of central Utah. It’s a paradise for backroad adventurers, hikers, and anyone drawn to wild, open spaces. Goblin Valley’s mushroom-like hoodoos are a visual spectacle, while Buckhorn Wash offers towering canyon walls with ancient art. The region’s remoteness means solitude is still easy to find, especially if you’re willing to get off the pavement. Utah Route 24 acts as a central corridor dividing the Swell, offering access points to both the western and eastern reaches of this untamed landscape.
Recommended stop
A Glimpse into the Past
This landscape holds more than just natural beauty—it’s also rich in history. The Swell is home to rock art panels created by the Fremont and Barrier Canyon cultures, dating back over a thousand years. Nine Mile Canyon, sometimes called the “world’s longest art gallery,” contains thousands of petroglyphs and pictographs. Meanwhile, areas like Dinosaur National Monument preserve the fossils of creatures that once roamed here during the Jurassic period. The land holds traces of prehistoric animals, ancient cultures, and early settlers—each adding to the story of the land.
Washboard City: Time to air down lads!
What a trip!